The best nesting box is 12x12x12 inches for standard chickens (14x14x14 for large breeds), placed 18-24 inches off the ground, with one box per 3-4 hens. Fill with 2-3 inches of clean bedding (straw, wood shavings, or shredded paper). Place boxes in a dark, quiet corner of the coop, slightly lower than roosting bars. Good designs include roll-away boxes (eggs roll to a separate compartment), hinged lids for easy egg collection, and removable dividers for cleaning. Avoid round boxes, metal boxes (too hot/cold), and designs that trap moisture.
What you will need
Choose the Right Size Nesting Box
Standard chickens (Rhode Island Red, Orpington, Leghorn): Need 12x12x12 inch boxes. This gives them enough room to turn around but feels private and secure.
Large breeds (Brahma, Jersey Giant, Cochin): Need 14x14x14 inch boxes. These big birds need extra space to fit comfortably.
Bantams (Silkie, D'Uccle): Need 10x10x10 inch boxes. Smaller birds need smaller boxes to feel secure.
Depth: The box should be deep enough for the hen to sit comfortably. 12 inches is standard. Too shallow, and the hen may feel exposed. Too deep, and eggs may be harder to collect.
The 'turn around' test: A hen should be able to turn around comfortably in the box. If she can't, the box is too small.
Determine the Number of Nesting Boxes
General rule: One nesting box for every 3-4 hens. For 6 hens, you need 1-2 boxes. For 12 hens, 3-4 boxes.
Why so few? Hens don't need individual boxes. They often prefer the same box and will line up to wait their turn. Adding more boxes doesn't increase egg production.
What if I have more boxes? It's fine, but not necessary. Extra boxes take up coop space and can become places for hens to sleep (which you don't want).
If you have a mixed flock: The number of boxes is based on total number of hens, not breed. One box per 3-4 hens applies to all sizes.
Observation: Watch where your hens lay. If they're all using one box, you probably don't need more. If they're laying in random corners, you might need a better-designed box or a different location.
Place Nesting Boxes in the Right Location
Height: Place nesting boxes 18-24 inches off the ground. This is high enough for hens to feel secure but low enough for easy access.
Dark corner: Place boxes in a quiet, dark corner of the coop. Hens prefer privacy when laying. Avoid placing them near doors, windows, or high-traffic areas.
Below roosts: Nesting boxes should be placed below roosting bars. Chickens naturally roost at the highest point. If boxes are higher than roosts, they'll sleep in them, soiling them.
Accessibility: Position boxes so you can easily collect eggs without disturbing the hens. A lid on top or a side door is ideal.
Roost distance: Place roosts higher than nesting boxes by at least 12 inches. This discourages sleeping in the boxes.
Choose the Right Materials
Wood: The most common and recommended material. It's warm, natural, and easy to build with. Use exterior-grade plywood or scrap lumber. Paint or seal for weatherproofing.
Plastic: Durable and easy to clean but can get hot in summer. Plastic nesting boxes are often sold commercially and are good for easy cleaning.
Metal: Not recommended. Metal gets too hot in summer and too cold in winter. It's also loud and can be uncomfortable for hens.
Recycled materials: Many people use old milk crates, plastic tubs, or wooden crates as nesting boxes. Ensure they're the right size, clean, and have a smooth interior (no sharp edges).
DIY vs. store-bought: DIY is cheaper and allows custom sizing. Store-bought boxes are convenient and often have features like roll-away collection. Both work well.
Select the Best Bedding
Straw: The traditional choice. It's soft, comfortable, and holds eggs well. Straw provides good insulation and is easy to replace. However, it can harbor mites if not changed regularly.
Wood shavings (pine): Excellent at absorbing moisture and controlling odor. Available at most feed stores. Use coarse shavings (not dust) to reduce respiratory issues.
Shredded paper: A free and eco-friendly option. Avoid glossy or colored paper. It's less absorbent than straw or shavings and needs more frequent replacement.
Hay: Not recommended. Hay is more likely to harbor mold, mites, and moisture. Use straw instead.
How much: Add 2-3 inches of bedding. Replace when soiled or wet (usually every 1-2 weeks). Refill as needed.
Design Features to Consider
Roll-away boxes: Eggs roll into a separate compartment, preventing them from being eaten or soiled. Excellent for preventing egg eating.
Hinged lids: A lid on top of the box makes egg collection easy without reaching into the box (which can disturb the hen).
Removable dividers: Dividers between boxes can be removed for cleaning. This makes maintenance much easier.
Sloped roof: A sloped roof on the box prevents chickens from roosting on top (and soiling the boxes below).
Front lip: A 2-3 inch lip at the front of the box helps keep bedding and eggs inside.
Nest pad: A curved or cushioned pad inside the box encourages hens to sit comfortably and prevents eggs from breaking.
Build a Simple DIY Nesting Box
Simple design: Use exterior-grade plywood (1/2-inch or 3/4-inch). Cut to the desired size (12x12x12 inches). Assemble with wood glue and screws.
One-box design: A single box is quick to build. Use for small flocks (2-4 hens).
Multi-box design: Build a row of boxes with dividers. This is more efficient for larger flocks and takes the same amount of effort per box.
Add a lid: Attach a hinged top for easy egg collection. This is a game-changer—you can collect eggs without reaching under the hen.
Finish: Sand rough edges. Paint or seal with non-toxic exterior paint. Add bedding and place in the coop.
Encourage Hens to Use the Nesting Boxes
Place fake eggs: Place ceramic or wooden eggs (or golf balls) in the boxes. Hens will see them and understand this is where eggs belong.
Keep boxes dark: Hens prefer dark, quiet places to lay. Ensure boxes are in a dark corner of the coop (not near windows or light).
Keep boxes clean: Replace bedding regularly and remove dirty eggs. Clean boxes are more inviting.
Collect eggs frequently: Collect eggs 2-3 times daily. This prevents egg eating and keeps hens interested in the boxes.
If they lay elsewhere: Collect eggs from the wrong spots and place them in the nesting boxes. This can be learned. Block off other hiding spots.
Check broody hens: If a hen is broody (sitting on the nest), she may prevent others from using the box. Remove broody hens or break broodiness.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Hens are not laying in nesting boxes (laying elsewhere) | Boxes are in a bright or busy spot, too dirty, or too high/low. | Move boxes to a dark, quiet corner. Clean them and add fresh bedding. Ensure they're at the correct height (18-24 inches). Place fake eggs in the boxes. |
| Eggs are broken or dirty | Too little bedding, overcrowded boxes, or aggressive hens. | Add more bedding (2-3 inches). Ensure 1 box per 3-4 hens. Reduce stress in the flock. |
| Hens are sleeping in nesting boxes | Boxes are higher than roosts or roosts are too low. | Ensure roosts are the highest point in the coop. Close off nesting boxes at night until hens learn to roost. |
| Eggs are missing or seem eaten | Egg eating behavior—hens have learned to eat eggs. | Collect eggs more frequently. Provide calcium (oyster shells). Use roll-away boxes. Remove egg eaters or use fake eggs to discourage. |
Gardener's checklist
Test what you learned
What is the ideal size for a standard chicken nesting box?
Answer: 12x12x12 inches
How many nesting boxes do you need for 6 hens?
Answer: 1-2
What is the best bedding material for nesting boxes?
Answer: Straw
Where should nesting boxes be placed?
Answer: In a dark, quiet corner of the coop
Common questions
Do chickens need nesting boxes?
Yes—nesting boxes provide a private, comfortable place for hens to lay eggs. Without them, hens will lay eggs in random spots (corners, under bushes, or on the floor), making collection difficult and eggs more likely to break.
Why are my hens laying eggs on the floor?
They may not like the nesting boxes (too dirty, too bright, wrong location), or they haven't learned to use them. Place fake eggs in the boxes and collect floor eggs quickly.
Can I use milk crates as nesting boxes?
Yes, milk crates make excellent nesting boxes. They're the right size (usually 12x12x12), durable, and easy to clean. Just ensure the sides are solid (or cover them) so eggs don't roll out.
How often should I clean nesting boxes?
Change bedding when it's wet or soiled (usually every 1-2 weeks). A deep clean (scrubbing) should be done every 3-6 months. Regular cleaning prevents mites and diseases.
Can I have too many nesting boxes?
Yes—too many boxes take up coop space and can encourage hens to sleep in them (if they're higher than roosts). One box per 3-4 hens is the optimal ratio.
Nesting boxes are an essential part of any chicken coop—they provide a private, comfortable space for hens to lay eggs. Size matters: 12x12x12 inches for standard breeds, 14x14x14 for large breeds, and 10x10x10 for bantams. Place them 18-24 inches off the ground in a dark, quiet corner below the roosts. Provide one box for every 3-4 hens, use 2-3 inches of clean bedding (straw or pine shavings), and consider design features like hinged lids and roll-away boxes to make egg collection easier. With proper design and placement, your hens will lay eggs in the boxes, and you'll enjoy clean, easy-to-collect eggs every day.
Frequently asked questions
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The Sproutstead Editorial Team
We create clear, practical gardening and homesteading guides designed for real homes and beginner growers.
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